HEALTH

 

 

Fur Slip
Chinchillas often lose patches of fur when roughly handled or when they are frightened.

Fur Chewing
Fur chewing is the condition where a chinchilla chews on its own or anothers fur resulting in a rough, moth-eaten appearing coat.  There is a debate on if fur chewing is a gentic problem or a stress related behaviour

Heat Stroke
High temperatures and high humidity are not tolerated well by chinchillas.  Affected animals will be lying on their sides and panting. They also feel hot to the touch because of elevated body temperature. Heat stroke in chinchillas is fatal if not caught in time and this condition is preventable. The chinchilla comfort zone is 65-85 degrees fahrenheit and 30-40% humiditiy.  If the temperture and humidity add up to 150 then this is very dangerous to chinchillas

 

Fur fungus

Chinchillas are highly susceptible to ringworm, a fungal infection of the skin and fur, due to their thick pelts which absorb ambient humidity, thus providing an ideal growing environment for ringworm spores to flourish. 

Fungi grow well in areas that are dark, moist, dirty and that have stagnant air.  Fungus is an airborne disease, it can be spread through the air, by your hands, by a breeding male, sharing dust baths or trays, etc

If cages are kept clean, humidity is low (below 70%) , air circulation is good and lighting is on during daylight hours, then the problem will be relatively easy to prevent reoccurring.

The first signs of fungus are usually at the nose or tail area. Whiskers will break and skin around the nose or on the tail will look red, dry, irritated and flaky.

The affected animals' cages  and contents should be disinfected and  the dustbath should be kept to that cage.  Also on the days when the chin isn’t going to have a sand bath I’ve found it useful to mist the cage and chinchilla with a pet safe disinfect such as virkon.  Be sure to wash your hands after handling these animals to help prevent spreading the fungus.

Chinchilla fungus powder is a medicated talc powder designed for the chinchilla fungus problem, medicated athlete foot powder is sometimes substituted for this.  I’ve found it is better to put some of the medicated powder directly on the affected area as well in the sand bath. 

Hair Rings

This is quite common in breeding and non breeding males alike.  Fur becomes trapped around the penis and can constrict the blood supply

To remove a hair ring:
1. Have someone securely hold the chinchilla, with his belly facing you. The chinchilla may try to kick you, so it can take a few tries.
2. Push the outer folds of the penis down toward the chinchilla until you see the tip.
3. Pull the penis out of its sheath until extended.
4. Check for hair rings.
5. If a hair ring is found, carefully try to roll it off the penis. If it doesn't move, use a tiny bit of KY Jelly to help ease it off. Do not use oil or vaseline!
6. Allow the penis to retract into its sheath. Sometimes this will take 10 minutes or so.
 

Diarahea

Chinchillas have very sensitive stomachs, so even the slightest change in diet can cause diarrhea. Diaahea can be caused by feeding too many treats. The feces are soft and mushy. Just feed the basic pellet and hay, if there is no sign of improvement  consult a vet.

Constipation

     Constipation can occur from a change in diet or stress. Poop will be noticeable smaller and decreased in quantity. To remedy constipation at home, feed a small piece of dried pineapple, dried papaya, or a raisin. If the feces are not back to normal by the next morning, consult a vet.

Malocclusion

     Malocclusion is where a chinchilla's molars continue to grow up into their nasal passages, occular cavities, and brains... causing immense pain and eventually death. It is usually genetic, but can also sometimes be caused by poor diet/enviroment. Usually malocclusion does not show until around 2 years of age. A chinchilla with malocclusion should never be allowed to breed.  The only sure way to tell is to have an x-ray taken.
     Advanced signs of malocclusion include drooling, lethargy, weight loss, decreased feces, and decreased food intake. Weight loss, decreased feces, and half-finished pellets are all signs that it is too painful for the chinchilla to eat. One of the earliest signs is the presence of multiple "bumps" along the underside of the jaw line.
 Most of the time though, it is kindest to have the chinchilla put to sleep.

Teeth

A baby chinchillas teeth are white, they will change colour as they grow
 A healthy adult's chinchilla teeth will be a orange-yellow colour . If an adult chinchilla has white teeth, it could indicate a lack of vitamins/minerals. Chinchillas teeth constantly grow, so they must be provided with safe things to chew on to keep them worn down.

 

Safe woods and unsafe woods.

Safe woods to chew ( must be untreated and fungicide free)

 

·         apple

·         hazelnut

·         pine(if clean of phenol oils)

·         pear

·         manzanita

·         Hawthorn

·         Magnolia

·         Hazelnut

NOT SAFE

 

·         orange

·         cherry

·         grapefruit

·         plum

·         cedar

·         lemon

·         citrus wood

·         fresh pine

·         peach

·         apricot

·         beech

·         birch

·         fir

·         oak

eucalyptus